His Garden Tips for October 2006

Above Spring Cabbage mentioned last month, sown in trays and placed in the Grow House.

Spring Cabbage potted up last month.

I have planted the above approx. 8 inches apart, as the plants increase in size, I use every other one as winter greens. The remaining plants will grow into full size Spring Cabbage.

I am now picking Runner Beans, Sweet Corn and French Dwarf Beans.

A line of early Peas will be sown at the beginning of this month. A deep seed bed will be prepared, a dressing of Grow more will be raked into the surface of the bed at a handful to a 3 foot run. The Peas be sown in double drills 3 or 4 inches deep. Leaving 3 or 4 inches between the seed, and approx. 10 inches between drills. Should one require more than one row of Peas, I would leave approx. 3 feet between rows.

The bed will be covered with cloches. As soon as the seedlings are established, I will remove the cloches for a while, at mid day, gradually leaving the seedlings exposed longer each day. As the seedlings become stronger, the cloches will be removed permanently. A pea net will be erected between each double row, to support the crop.

The Turnips are doing well.

One can sow spinach and radish, however, I do not sow the above until the Spring. But will sow a line of Turnips.

Spring Cabbage will be sown in a propagator, and placed indoors, on the window sill. When the seedlings appear, the top of the propagator will be removed, and the tray placed in the Grow House. The Grow House will be closed. In the mornings, I will wipe the condensation off the inside of the grow-house. This procedure, will help to prevent the seedlings damping off. As the seedlings become established, the Grow House will be left open a little longer each day, so that when the seedlings are ready to pot up, they should be ready to live outside.

If the Asparagus fern has not been cut down, I would attend to the job this month. After cutting the fern down to approx. 8 inches above the bed. The bed would be thoroughly weeded, and a dressing of salt applied, followed by a heavy dressing of Derris Dust.

Lilac

The dead flower heads will be cut off, if the shrub is becoming too dense. I will prune two year stems, back by approx. half, to a single, or a pare of buds. Not taking all the stems back to the same length, but try to create a balance shrub.

Lavender

I will cut off dead flower stalks, and lightly trim the shrub.

Any pruning of leggy specimens, I will leave until April.

Roses

I will prune Roses back to an outward facing bud, 14 or 15 inches above the bed. This operation helps to prevent wind rock.

I will continue to cut down dead growth in the borders, and mark the position with a cane. This operation will help me to avoid the plants, when hoeing.

Shrubs

One can prune shrubs that have finished flowering. I usually wait until the leaves have fallen. Please see January 006, for method followed.

I will continue to use the Dutch Hoe between the crops.

Picking fruit.

When picking Apples, Pears and most fruit. I carefully lift the fruit, if it leaves the tree without being forced. I consider it fit to pick.

Storing the above

One can purchase fruit storage trays. However, I wrap the fruit individually in tissue or newspaper and place the fruit in trays, as in the photo above, not allowing the fruit to touch each other. A dry frost free shed is suitable, or indoors if one has room.