His Garden Tips For January 2005

Celery in a bleak position, may need protection from severe weather. One could use straw or horticultural fleece.

The Broad Beans sown in November, will be kept free from weeds, by using the Dutch Hoe.

At the end of the month, I hope to plant Rhubarb. The bed will be deeply dug. The Crowns will be planted, approx. 2 feet apart, leaving only one bud just above the bed. The soil made firm. A dressing of manure applied, avoiding contact with the bud. Jerusalem Artichokes, can be lifted as required.

If a bed for Sweet Peas was prepared last year, last year, and not limed, I would apply a very light dressing of Lime.

I will continue to prune shrubs that have flowered, and lightly fork over the adjacent ground. Making sure that I do not damage the roots.

As rule of thumb, when pruning shrubs, I take out all dead and diseased wood, and some old wood, necessary. Pruning new growth lightly to maintain shape as required. Always pruning to bud, from which I wish the shrub to develop.

I will finish pruning the Roses. Cutting them down to approx. 1 foot 18 inches above ground level, depending upon the size of the bush. This operation lessens the possibility of wind rock, witch loosens the roots, and to some extent, prevents suckers being thrown up.The rose beds have been limed. Approximately two handfuls per bush, making sure that the lime does, not come into contact with the bush.

The Apple trees will pruned early this month. I do not prune newly planted trees until the following season. When pruning apple trees, I take 4 or 5 inches of the new growth of each leader. End of each branch. Pruning back an outward facing bud. The remaining growth on the branch, the lateral growth. I prune to approx. 1 inch, from the old wood. The following spring, one or two buds will break into growth. One of which will possibly turn into a fruit bud. A Fruit bud is usually plump, and likely to stand out. Having decided which is the fruit bud, I will prune out all growth above. 

The following seasons, I always prune the leader back to an outward facing bud. If the tree is not making much growth, I prune back quite hard. Only lightly if the growth is strong.

Pears, when young, I prune lightly. Other wise, I follow the above method.

Trees. I would cut out diseased branches. I would leave Laurel, and cherry until April or May. When removing branches from large shrubs and small trees. I cut back to a dormant bud, usually distinguishable, by a thin half ring on branch, possibly a little swollen.

Grape vine. Pruning completed, the rod will be bent down, to very slightly below the horizontal position.

The grass is rather long, I will not mow. Just clip the edges of lawn, and paths.

If you have any Gardening Queries or wish for any advice directly concerning your garden, then please send a stamped, addressed envelope, together with a cheque or postal order made for £5.50 made out to A. Corbin to –

Five Chimneys

Pilley Street

Pilley

Lymington, Hampshire SO41 5QG

United Kingdom
 

Any unanswered queries will have their cheques/postal orders returned